Category: Mechanical Keyboards

The Cantor is a 42-key split mechanical keyboard with an aggressive stagger. I have built a few of these, both for my own use and to sell.

Parts list

This is what we need to build a Cantor:

• PCB – I order these from JLCPCB
• Two STM32F401CC blackpill microcontrollers and sockets – can be picked up really cheaply from Aliexpress
• 42 choc v1 switches
• 42 choc-compatible 1U keycaps
• 2 TRRS jacks (PJ-320A)
• TRRS cable
• USB-C cable
• 10-12 rubber feet

All the example code in this guide will be assuming that the Vial firmware will be used. It requires having a working installation of the vial-qmk github repository.

Flashing Controllers

Flash each controller to test they work, and to define which controller belongs to which side of the keyboard.

Firstly test that your firmware compiles:

qmk compile -kb cantor -km vial

Then flash each controller in turn:

qmk flash -kb cantor -km vial --bootloader dfu-util-split-left
qmk flash -kb cantor -km vial --bootloader dfu-util-split-right

If you get the message Waiting for USB serial port - reset your controller now (Ctrl+C to cancel) you will need to bridge BOOT0 to VCC (via BOOT0 button or jumper), short RESET to GND (via RESET button or jumper), and then let go of the BOOT0 bridge.

Once you have done this then label the controllers so you are absolutely sure which is which.

If QMK encounters errors it will let you know. Fix any errors before proceeding to the next step.

PCB

These steps will get us a PCB that we can test:

1. Solder the sockets to the PCB
2. Solder the TRRS jacks to the PCB
3. Socket the controllers (for this build both controllers will be face down)
4. Connect the two halves with the TRRS cable

Testing

Plug the keyboard into a computer, and short every single socket to test that the right key codes are sent. I use QMK Configurator to test this.

If anything is awry, fix it before soldering switches.

Soldering switches

Press each switch into the PCB, and ensure they are straight. Then solder each one in turn.

Once the switches are soldered, repeat the same tests as before. If any switches do not work, or behave oddly (repeated keys, excessive chatter etc.) then resolder them.

Final touches

Apply 5-6 rubber feet to the bottom of each half of the PCB, and then add keycaps.

The Ferris Sweep is a 34-key split board with an aggressive stagger. I have built a few of these, both for my own use and to sell.

Parts list

This is what we need to build a Ferris Sweep:

• Sweep High PCB. I get mine printed by JLCPCB.
• Two controllers and sockets. I have built these with a number of different controllers, but mostly the Pro-Micro to keep the cost down.
• 34 switches (Choc v1 or v2, or MX). For this minimal build a low-profile switch makes a lot more sense, but you will end up paying more for switches and keycaps. Choc v2 with blank keycaps may work out the most economical in the end.
• 34 1U keycaps to match switches chosen. Blank keycaps will bring the cost down if they are an option for you.
• 2 TRRS jacks (PJ-320A)
• TRRS cable
• Cable to match controllers chosen (almost certainly a USB-C cable)
• 10-12 rubber feet (these are definitely not optional on this build)

All the example code in this guide will be assuming that the Vial firmware will be used. It requires having a working installation of the vial-qmk github repository.

Flashing Controllers

Flash each controller to test they work, and to define which controller belongs to which side of the keyboard.

Firstly test that your firmware compiles:

qmk compile -kb ferris/sweep -km vial

Then flash each controller in turn:

Pro-Micro

qmk flash -kb ferris/sweep -km vial --bootloader avrdude-split-left
qmk flash -kb ferris/sweep -km vial --bootloader avrdude-split-right

If you get the message Waiting for USB serial port - reset your controller now (Ctrl+C to cancel) you will need to Short RST to GND quickly in order to flash the controller.

Elite-Pi

qmk flash -c -kb ferris/sweep -km vial -e CONVERT_TO=elite_pi --bootloader uf2-split-left
qmk flash -c -kb ferris/sweep -km vial -e CONVERT_TO=elite_pi --bootloader uf2-split-right

Frood

qmk flash -c -kb ferris/sweep -km vial -e CONVERT_TO=promicro_rp2040 --bootloader uf2-split-left
qmk flash -c -kb ferris/sweep -km vial -e CONVERT_TO=promicro_rp2040 --bootloader uf2-split-right

Once you have done this then label the controllers so you are absolutely sure which is which.

If QMK encounters errors it will let you know. Fix any errors before proceeding to the next step.

PCB

These steps will get us a PCB that we can test:

1. Solder the sockets to the PCB
2. Solder the TRRS jacks to the PCB
3. Socket the controllers (for this build both controllers will be face down, but there is a handy message printed on the PCB which will help with orientation)
4. Connect the two halves with the TRRS cable

Testing

Plug the keyboard into a computer, and short every single socket to test that the right key codes are sent. I use QMK Configurator to test this.

If anything is awry, fix it before soldering switches.

Soldering switches

Press each switch into the PCB, and ensure they are straight. Then solder each one in turn.

Once the switches are soldered, repeat the same tests as before. If any switches do not work, or behave oddly (repeated keys, excessive chatter etc.) then re-solder them.

Final touches

Apply 5-6 rubber feet to the bottom of each half of the PCB, and then add keycaps.

The Corne is a 42-key mechanical keyboard. These are my notes on building and configuring it. Largely for my own benefit.

The Corne I’m using is the RTG model, ordered from Mechboards. I am currently part way through building one from scratch as well though.

Currently I’m using this case which make it look a lot better, as well as being significantly more stable on my desk. I’ve also now screwed the original base on to the bottom to give even more stability.

I’m close to getting the keymap how I want it, although it is still a work in progress, The defaults are sensible, but I want this to be interchangeable with the Planck and so I have moved a few things around and added macros for things I do often.

On the left-hand side there is a number pad on a layer, plus additional functionality hidden below the modifiers.

On the right-hand side I have navigation on one layer, and commonly used symbols on another.

As with all my keyboards, I’m using AUTO_SHIFT_ENABLE to remove the need to use a modifier when I am typing normal text.

I have used this periodically for a few months, and it is currently my main keyboard.

After a bit of work yesterday I’m actually really happy with this board. I bought it because I wanted something fairly conventional that I could flash with autoshift so that it could be used as a backup keyboard when I’m travelling (I use a Planck as my main keyboard).

I’ve built it using things I already had lying around (a bright blue plastic case from Optic Boards, plate and stabs from an old pre-built, Glorious Panda switches, and some generic beige keycaps). The hardware build was easy; the software build less so.

The key mapping this board comes with doesn’t really work for me. There is no function key mapped, so no access to layers (and therefore no access to navigation). There was also no way to turn off the very obvious RGB. This didn’t really bother me, as I was planning on using QMK to reflash it. The following is a list of things I learned during the process of building and flashing the firmware.

• Despite there being an entry for DZ60 in QMK, this board is actually listed as dztech/dz60rgb_ansi/v2
• The file extension required for the firmware is .bin, despite all other versions of this board being .hex
• The software reset combination for this board is to hold escape down as you plug the board in
• The hardware reset button for this board in in the middle on the board, and nowhere near the reset slot in most cases (including my case).

Putting all that aside, it’s a great board that is fun to type on and sounds really good. I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone who wasn’t used to doing this sort of project, but I actually quite enjoyed the build and can see this as a keyboard that will definitely get some use.

My adventures in mechanical keyboards led me to building a Planck this week. A Planck is a 40% ortholinear keyboard with no dedicated number keys, and only 47 keys in total. It was more straightforward to build than I expected, and I’m slowly getting used to typing on it. It’s probably not something I would ever want to use as my main keyboard unless space was at a real premium, but adapting it to the way I work will be an interesting challenge, and might even mean I end up writing a custom i3 config file just for this keyboard (because I use numbers a lot, and it doesn’t have any).

I do like the idea of it though, and will definitely spend some time each day learning to type quickly on it, as I think it might make a great travel keyboard if I ever get round to travelling again.

I also think I want some different keycaps, which at least have the names of the keys written on them. The ones I got are ok for testing that everything works, but they have symbols on all the modifiers, and it’s taking me longer to remember which key is which. I’m not finding anything cheap and functional, so I suspect I’ll throw some money at this at some point or at least see what I can throw together from things I already have

Because the Planck is a 40% keyboard, a lot of keys are on layers, and these are a few of the ones I think I’ll need to use the most:

• Numbers – Lower + qwertyuiop
• What you usually get when you press shift and a number key – Raise + qwertyuiop
• Refresh – Lower + g
• Page down – Raise + /
• # – Raise + m
• Hyphen – Raise + j
• Underscore – Lower + j

This keyboard has a steep learning curve, but I suspect once I have learned then it will be a really pleasant typing experience.

I bought this a while ago (with a decent discount) because I wanted a cheap hot-swappable keyboard to test different types of switches I might want to put in my main keyboard. After using it in anger for a few days while I’ve been off work I actually think it compares very well to more expensive options, and it’s the only 60% I’ve found so far that could maybe replace my Motospeed CK61 as the keyboard I reach for which I want a loud 60% typing experience on my downstairs computer.

A quick web search suggested that this keyboard might be programmable (despite no mention in the manual). After a bit of a trawl through the Royal Kludge website I found a link for the software. It’s Windows only, but I have an old laptop that just runs software for programming keyboards so I was able to install it and make the one tweak that wasn’t already enabled.

All I actually had to change was mapping Caps Lock to F5. With the arrow keys where they are I can use this 60% keyboard with no macropad providing what I’m doing doesn’t require using the forward slash a great deal, and whilst this doesn’t leave me with any more keys to programme, it does mean I can use this for extended periods of time without having to user layers or macropads.

So this keyboard now fulfils all the criteria for my perfect keyboard:

• 60% UK layout
• Hot-swappable
• Programmable

It’s also Bluetooth, which actually makes it better than anything else I have based on those criteria. It’s not as solid as the GMKK, but if I had to use one keyboard forever then I think it would be this one (especially if I needed to travel). It pairs nicely with my iPad, and I have no doubt it will do the same with my laptop and phone (it handles a maximum of three devices, which is probably enough).

I’m currently running this with Kailh Jade Green switches and keycaps which I already had, so it’s definitely been a budget build so far. I suspect more customisation may happen eventually, although I am perfectly happy with this set up for now and very much recommend this keyboard; even to people who are not interested in keyboards and just want a nice typing experience.